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Writer's pictureAlice Whittle Hall

All About Garment Construction


Sewing is a profession for some, but a hobby for many. This post will detail a myriad of helpful insights that will make garment construction much easier and more enjoyable. I created a glossary of terms with definitions.

Seam Allowance: The width of space between the raw edges of the fabric and the actual stitch/seam. It is usually 1cm, to allow for enough space for the overlocking to be done afterward.


Stitch Length: The length of the stitch. It differs depending on what you are sewing. Usually, 2.5mm is the preferred length, but for gathering, 4mm is recommended.


Hem: The method of finishing the raw edge of a trouser, sleeve or any other garment. Usually, it is quite large so that it can be taken down to change the length.


Rolled Hem: A rolled hem is a type of hem that involves turning the seam allowance up a small amount, usually 0.5cm or 1cm, pressing flat and then turning up again and topstitching in place. The raw edges of the fabric are completely concealed within the rolled hem.


Blind Hem: Another style of hem that uses a specific function on a machine to catch the hem without any stitching being shown on the outer side of the garment.


Plain Sewer: A regular sewing machine.


Overlocker: An overlocker is a type of sewing machine that is either 3 thread or 4 thread. It is used to close the seam allowances after a garment is sewn. This is to protect the garment from fraying and to give it a professional finish.

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