Notes: General stitch length is 2.5cm, and will be used unless otherwise indicated (for gathering purposes) and the general seam allowance is 1cm and will be used unless otherwise stated.
Step One: Lay out the fabric and identify the right side and grainline (which is usually parallel to the selvedge). Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the grainline. It is also important to match up the pattern pieces with the patterns on the fabric and to place the pieces all in the same direction of the fabric so it all lines up properly. Make sure to read the cutting instructions on the pattern piece to see if it is cut on the fold, or cut one single so you can place it appropriately.
Step Two: Trace around the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, and cut out the pieces. For this garment, there will be a pair of front armhole pieces, a pair of centre front pieces, a pair of front side pieces, a pair of back armhole pieces, a pair of centre back pieces, a pair of back-side pieces and one single sleeve.
Step Three: Begin by placing one of the front armhole pieces on top of the centre front piece with right sides together and plain sewing. Then place the front side piece onto the centre front piece with right sides together and plain sew. Press these seams flat towards the outer edge and topstitch them to secure. Repeat this will the other fronts so there are two opposite facing fronts.
Step Four: Place one of the back armhole pieces on top of the centre back piece with right sides together and plain sew. Then place the back-side piece onto the centre back piece with right sides together and plain sew. Press these seams flat towards the outer edge and topstitch them to secure. Repeat this will the other backs so there are two opposite facing backs.
Step Five: Place one of the fronts on top of one of the backs, pin and plain sew the shoulder seams together. Press flat. Pin and plain sew the side seam with an armhole but leave the other side seam open. Repeat for the other front and back so there are two opposite shells. Place one on top of the other with right sides together to bag out. Both fronts must be together and both backs. Plain sew around the top back edge, top front edge and the hem, leaving the non-armhole side seams open to turn through. Snip into the seam allowance to open up and turn the garment through to the right side. Thoroughly press the top at this point, making sure that the inner parts do not overflow to the outer parts. Press the seam allowances on the open side seams in to mimic the finished edge and topstitch to close.
Step Six: Sew up the sleeve by folding it in half vertically with the right sides together and plain sewing the seam. Overlock the seam closed. Set in the sleeve by turning the garment inside out, and pinning the sleeve into the armhole, making sure the right sides are together. Plain sew around the armhole, ensuring that the side seam of the garment and seam on the sleeve match up. Press the shoulder and armhole area smooth. Overlock armholes closed. Hem the sleeve by turning it up 1cm and then again the remaining hem allowance until the sleeve is the desired length. Topstitch to secure.
Step Seven: To make the closure for the garment, set up the sewing machine to create buttonholes, or use a specific buttonhole machine. Mark on the front small side seam area where the buttonholes will be positioned and how long they will be. Check the size of buttons to make sure they will fit. Make each buttonhole, and before using an unpick to slice through the centre to open it up, check that they are all even. Slice open the buttonholes.
Step Eight: Make the covered buttons by following the directions on the package. Place the small piece of fabric with the right side facing downwards on a table and put the button face down as well so it sits on the wrong side of the fabric. Pull the fabric into the centre cavity of the button, securing it on the rough edges, and place the internal button piece in to secure the button. Repeat with the other covered buttons and then hand sew them onto the back-side seam area of the garment at the marks.
Step Nine: Give the garment a final thorough press and focus on the seams and smoothing any creases. Cut any loose threads at this time as well.
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