Notes: General stitch length is 2.5cm, and will be used unless otherwise indicated (for gathering purposes) and the general seam allowance is 1cm and will be used unless otherwise stated.
Step One: Lay out the fabric and identify the right side and grainline (which is usually parallel to the selvedge). Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the grainline. It is also important to match up the pattern pieces with the patterns on the fabric and to place the pieces all in the same direction of the fabric so it all lines up properly. Make sure to read the cutting instructions on the pattern piece to see if it is cut on the fold, or cut one single so you can place it appropriately.
Step Two: Trace around the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, and cut out the pieces. For this garment, there will be one centre front outer piece, a pair of front side outer pieces, a pair of back-side outer pieces, a pair of centre back outer pieces, one centre front lining piece, a pair of front side lining pieces, a pair of back-side lining pieces, and a pair of centre back lining pieces.
Step Three: Cut out fusing pieces and fuse the relevant fabric pieces, which in this case, are all of the outer pieces.
Step Four: To construct the outer shell of the under-corset, begin by attaching each of the two front side pieces to the centre front piece at the side seams with a 2cm seam allowance. Then attach each of the two back-side pieces to the front side pieces with a 2cm seam allowance. Attach each of the back-side pieces to the centre back pieces with a 2cm seam allowance. Press all the seams to the inner sides. Take each of the 2cm seam allowances and sew 1cm seam allowances to create a 1cm width boning casing at each seam.
Step Five: Repeat the same steps with the outer shell for the lining/inner shell. Attach each of the two front side pieces to the centre front piece at the side seams with a 1cm seam allowance. Attach each of the two back-side pieces to the front side pieces with a 1cm seam allowance. Attach each of the back-side pieces to the centre back pieces with a 1cm seam allowance. Press all the seams open and flat.
Step Six: Using the boning casings created with the seam allowances, measure and cut the boning to fit each part. Stitch down the bottom of each boning casing piece at least 1cm away from the raw edge so it does not get caught when bagging out. Insert the boning and close up the top of each boning casing using the same idea as the bottom. Turn the garment over to the right side and topstitch each boning piece down, making sure it is pointed inwards.
Step Seven: To bag out the entire garment, place the outer shell with right sides up and the inner shell on top so the right sides are connected. Plain sew around the entire top and hem of the under-corset, making sure to snip into any seam allowances that do not sit nicely.
Step Eight: Measure the hook and eye tape with the finished width of the centre back and cut both pieces to the right side. Make sure to consider the way a person would wear the garment, as it is the same as a bra so the correct part goes with the correct side of the centre back. The left centre back has the eyes facing upwards and the right centre back has the hooks on the inside so the closure works properly. Topstitch the closure pieces on, making sure that everything is caught on both sides.
Step Nine: Give the garment a final thorough press and focus on smoothing any seams.