Notes: General stitch length is 2.5cm, and will be used unless otherwise indicated (for gathering purposes) and the general seam allowance is 1cm and will be used unless otherwise stated.
Step One: Lay out the fabric and identify the right side and grainline (which is usually parallel to the selvedge). Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the grainline. It is also important to match up the pattern pieces with the patterns on the fabric and to place the pieces all in the same direction of the fabric so it all lines up properly. Make sure to read the cutting instructions on the pattern piece to see if it is cut on the fold, or cut one single so you can place it appropriately.
Step Two: Trace around the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, and cut out the pieces. For this garment, there will be a pair of fronts (one left and one right), a pair of backs (one left and one right), a pair of wrap pieces, a pair (or two) ties, a pair of cuffs, and a pair of waistbands (these need to be cut separately because they are curved so they cannot be cut on the fold).
Step Three: Cut out fusing pieces and fuse the relevant fabric pieces, which in this case, are the two waistband pieces, the two cuffs, and the two ties. Pin the two waistband pieces with right sides together and plain sew the top edge. Turn it over and press the seam allowance flat to one side. Understitch on the right side to keep the seam allowance to one side. Press. For the wrap piece, pin the two pieces with the right sides together and plain sew around the waist edge and the long edge, leaving a small gap at the intersection of the two edges for one of the ties. Turn it through, check that there are no issues and press it flat. For the ties, fold one tie in half longwise, and plain sew with a 1cm seam allowance around the 3 edges, leaving a 10cm gap in the middle to turn through. Turn the tie through and press flat. Topstitch around the three edges, and secure the open gap at this time as well. Repeat this step for the other one of the ties.
Step Four: Using a plain sewer machine and appropriately coloured thread, pin the dart placement for one of the fronts and sew the dart. Repeat this with the other front, and press the darts flat towards the side seams instead of the crotch. Pin the dart placements for one of the backs and sew the two darts. Repeat this with the other back, and press these darts flat towards the side seams again.
Step Five: Pin both of the fronts together with the right sides together at the crotch area. Plain sew the crotch lines together from the top of the centre front to the bottom of the curve. Measure the length of your chosen zip (for this garment I used a 20cm visible metal zip). Measure the depth of the waistband in conjunction with the length of the centre back (removing 1cm for a seam allowance). Mark the point of 20cm. Pin the two backs from that point to the bottom of the crotch curve and plain sew only this part. Press the crotch seams smooth. Lie the two fronts on a table with the right sides facing upwards. Place the two backs on top so that fronts and back are connected with right sides together. Pin together at the side seam on only the right side, making sure to leave a space at the notch for one of the ties and the crotch points as well as the entire inner legs. Plain sew one of the side seams. Plain sew the inner legs, making sure the central crotch lines match up. Press the seams smooth and flat.
Step Six: Pin one tie to the open space in the right side seam, and the other to the open space in the wrap piece. Plain sew these pieces to secure. Pin the wrap piece into the side seam that has been left open, and plain sew the entire side seam.
Step Seven: Pin the fused side of the waistband to the top waist area of the culottes, starting at one of the centre backs, and ending at one of the centre backs to ensure the waistband fits the garment waist. Plain sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Turn the waistband up and press flat. On the inside, press the seam allowances up towards the waistband. Turn the top half of the waistband down to the inside, and press a 1cm seam allowance so the finished edge matches the pressed up seam. Pin this in place over the entire length of the waistband. Topstitch on the outer side of the culottes all the way around the waistband. Remove the pins and check that all the inner seam allowances have been caught and sewn down, if not, unpick the section and resew.
Step Eight: Press the waistband smooth. Take the concealed zip and line it up with the two centre backs. Fold one side of the zip so the garment and zip right sides are together and the wrong side of the zip is facing upwards. Change the sewing machine foot to a concealed zipper foot. Line up the zip and plain sew as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Repeat these steps with the other side of the zip. Once the zip is in, check to see that it works and runs smoothly. If there are any issues, fix them at this stage. Press the seam allowances and zipper tape place from the outside.
Fold one of the cuffs in half vertically with the right sides together and plain sew the seam. Press this seam open and flat. Pin one edge of the cuff to the ankle area of the wrap trouser, making sure that it fits properly, and evenly distributing any ease. Plain sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Turn the cuff up and press flat. On the inside, press the seam allowances up towards the cuff. Turn the top half of the cuff down to the inside, and press a 1cm seam allowance so the finished edge matches the pressed up seam. Pin this in place over the entire length of the cuff. Topstitch on the outer side of the wrap trouser all the way around the cuff. Remove the pins and check that all the inner seam allowances have been caught and sewn down, if not, unpick the section and resew. Repeat these steps with the other cuff.
Step Nine: Give garment a final thorough press and focus on the ties, and smoothing any seams.