Notes: General stitch length is 2.5cm, and will be used unless otherwise indicated (for gathering purposes) and the general seam allowance is 1cm and will be used unless otherwise stated.
Step One: Lay out the fabric and identify the right side and grainline (which is usually parallel to the selvedge). Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the grainline. It is also important to match up the pattern pieces with the patterns on the fabric and to place the pieces all in the same direction of the fabric so it all lines up properly. Make sure to read the cutting instructions on the pattern piece to see if it is cut on the fold, or cut one single so you can place it appropriately.
Step Two: Trace around the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, and cut out the pieces. For this garment, there will be one front, one back, a pair of sleeves, a pair of sleeve ruffles, a pair of sleeve cuffs, one front-facing and one back facing.
Step Three: Cut out fusing pieces and fuse the relevant fabric pieces, which in this case, are only the two facings and the cuffs.
Step Four: Place the front onto the back with right sides together. Pin the shoulder and side seams. Plain sew the shoulder seams and then the side seams. Press closed and flat. Overlock the shoulder and side seams closed.
Step Five: Prepare the gathered pieces by using a large (4cm) or gathering stitch to plain sew a single line of gathering at 5mm on one of the pieces. Backstitch at the beginning, but do not backstitch at the end so there are loose threads to pull. Pull the top thread gently to create gathering. Repeat this for the other piece. Pin one of the sleeve ruffles at the notches of the armhole. Plain sew. Repeat for the other ruffle. Do a rolled hem effect for the ruffles by turning the raw edge under 5mm and then another 5mm and topstitching.
Step Six: Sew up sleeves by folding one in half vertically with the right sides together and plain sewing the seam. Repeat for the other sleeve. Overlock the seam closed. Set in sleeves by turning the garment inside out, and pinning the sleeve into the armhole, making sure the right sides are together. Plain sew around the armhole, ensuring that the side seam of the garment and seam on the sleeve match up. Make sure that the ruffle is still properly visible and not caught. Press shoulder and armhole area smooth. Repeat for the other sleeve. Overlock armholes closed.
Step Seven: Fold one of the cuffs in half vertically with the right sides together and plain sew the seam. Press this seam open and flat. Pin one edge of the cuff to the sleeve hem area r, making sure that it fits properly, and evenly distributing any ease. The sleeve will be wider than the cuff so it will need to be slightly gathered in order to fit. Plain sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Turn the cuff up and press flat. On the inside, press the seam allowances up towards the cuff. Turn the top half of the cuff down to the inside, and press a 1cm seam allowance so the finished edge matches the pressed up seam. Pin this in place over the entire length of the cuff. Topstitch on the outer side of the blouse all the way around the cuff. Remove the pins and check that all the inner seam allowances have been caught and sewn down, if not, unpick the section and resew. Repeat these steps with the other cuff.
Step Eight: Plain sew the front-facing to the back facing at the shoulder seams, ensuring the right sides are together. Press the seams flat. With right sides together, pin the facing to the neckline of the garment, making sure fronts are together, backs are together, and everything lines up. Plain sew this in place, press flat and topstitch to secure. Snip into the seam allowance so it sits flat.
Step Nine: Make a covered button and a small loop and hand sew onto the top edges of the centre back opening.
Hem the blouse by creating a rolled hem by turning the raw edge under 1cm and then the rest of the value until it is at the desired length and topstitching. Give garment a final thorough press and focus on the ties, and smoothing any seams.
Comentários