Notes: General stitch length is 2.5cm, and will be used unless otherwise indicated (for gathering purposes) and the general seam allowance is 1cm and will be used unless otherwise stated.
Step One: Lay out the fabric and identify the right side and grainline (which is usually parallel to the selvedge). Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the grainline. It is also important to match up the pattern pieces with the patterns on the fabric and to place the pieces all in the same direction of the fabric so it all lines up properly. Make sure to read the cutting instructions on the pattern piece to see if it is cut on the fold, or cut one single so you can place it appropriately.
Step Two: Trace around the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, and cut out the pieces. For this garment, there will be a pair of fronts (one left and one right), a pair of backs (one left and one right), a pair of waistbands (these need to be cut separately because they are curved so they cannot be cut on the fold) and a pair of ankle ties.
Step Three: Cut out fusing pieces and fuse the relevant fabric pieces, which in this case, are the two waistband pieces and the two ties. Pin the two waistband pieces with right sides together and plain sew the top edge. Turn it over and press the seam allowance flat to one side. Understitch on the right side to keep the seam allowance to one side. Press.
Step Four: Fold one tie in half longwise, and plain sew with a 1cm seam allowance around the 3 edges, leaving a 10cm gap in the middle to turn through. Turn the tie through and press flat. Topstitch around the three edges, and secure the open gap at this time as well. Repeat this step for the other one of the ties.
Step Five: Using a plain sewer machine and appropriately coloured thread, pin the dart placement for one of the fronts and sew the dart. Repeat this with the other front, and press the darts flat towards the side seams instead of the crotch. Pin the dart placements for one of the backs and sew the two darts. Repeat this with the other back, and press these darts flat towards the side seams again.
Step Six: Pin both of the backs together with the right sides together at the crotch area. Plain sew the crotch lines together from the top of the centre front to the bottom of the curve. Measure the length of your chosen zip (for this garment I used a 20cm visible metal zip). Measure the depth of the waistband in conjunction with the length of the centre front (removing 1cm for a seam allowance). Mark the point of 20cm. Pin the two fronts from that point to the bottom of the crotch curve and plain sew only this part. Press the crotch seams smooth. Lie the two fronts on a table with the right sides facing upwards. Place the two backs on top so that fronts and back are connected with right sides together. Pin together at the side seams on both sides, and the crotch points as well as the entire inner legs. Plain sew one of the side seams. Repeat with the other side seam. Plain sew the inner legs, making sure the central crotch lines match up. Press the seams smooth and flat.
Step Seven: Pin the fused side of the waistband to the top waist area of the joggers, starting at one of the centre fronts, and ending at one of the centre fronts to ensure the waistband fits the garment waist. Plain sew with a 1cm seam allowance. Turn the waistband up and press flat. On the inside, press the seam allowances up towards the waistband. Turn the top half of the waistband down to the inside, and press a 1cm seam allowance so the finished edge matches the pressed up seam. Pin this in place over the entire length of the waistband. Topstitch on the outer side of the joggers all the way around the waistband. Remove the pins and check that all the inner seam allowances have been caught and sewn down, if not, unpick the section and resew. Press the waistband smooth. Take the visible zip and line it up with the two centre backs. Fold one side of the zip so the garment and zip right sides are together and the wrong side of the zip is facing upwards. Change the sewing machine foot to a zipper foot that coordinates with the side of the zip you are sewing. Line up the zip and plain sew as close to the zipper teeth as possible. Repeat these steps with the other side of the zip. Once the zip is in, check to see that it works and runs smoothly. If there are any issues, fix them at this stage. Press the seam allowances and zipper tape place from the outside.
Step Eight: Pin the hem of the joggers at the chalked line so the outside shows the desired finished edge and length. Try the joggers on a model or the person that will be wearing them to see if the length is suitable. Turn the joggers inside out and do a rolled hem. This involves turning the raw edge under 1cm and then rolling the fabric over until it meets the marked length. Pin this in place and plain sew on the outside to secure. Press the finished hem flat. Pin each of the ties to the inner leg seam in the desired location, and plain sew a small square shape to catch every corner or edge of the tie in place.
Step Nine: Give garment a final thorough press and focus on the ties, and smoothing any seams.
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