Notes: General stitch length is 2.5cm, and will be used unless otherwise indicated (for gathering purposes) and the general seam allowance is 1cm and will be used unless otherwise stated.
Step One: Lay out the fabric and identify the right side and grainline (which is usually parallel to the selvedge). Place the pattern pieces on the fabric according to the grainline. It is also important to match up the pattern pieces with the patterns on the fabric and to place the pieces all in the same direction of the fabric so it all lines up properly. Make sure to read the cutting instructions on the pattern piece to see if it is cut on the fold, or cut one single so you can place it appropriately.
Step Two: Trace around the pattern pieces with tailor's chalk, and cut out the pieces. For this garment, there will be one pair of left fronts, one pair of right fronts, two pairs of side parts, and one pair of backs.
Step Three: Cut out the fusing pieces and fuse the relevant fabric pieces, which in this case, will be one of each of the pieces.
Step Four: Take the fused back piece and attach it to each of the two fused side seam pieces with a 1cm seam. Then take the two fused front pieces and attach them to the side seam pieces with a 1cm seam. Make sure to keep the shoulder seams open.
Step Five: Repeat the same steps with the non-fused pieces. Take the non-fused back piece and attach it to each of the two non-fused side seam pieces with a 1cm seam. Then take the two non-fused front pieces and attach them to the side seam pieces with a 1cm seam. Make sure to keep the shoulder seams open.
Step Six: The next step is to bag out the entire vest. It is important to remember to leave a small opening in the garment hem that will be used to turn the garment through. Place the fused vest right sides up on a table and the non-fused vest on top so the right sides are connected. Pin and plain sew the garment together all around the fronts, armholes, side seams, necklines and most of the hem, except for the intentionally left open space. Snip into any seam allowances that need to be opened out for ease and turn the garment through. Press thoroughly, making sure that the inner fabric is not shown on the outside.
Step Seven: With the garment on the outside, reach inside and grab the shoulder areas. Hold them and pull or shake the entire thing through so the garment is inside out and the shoulder area within each other in a tube-like shape. Plain sew the tube pieces closed to close the shoulder seams from within so it does not show on the outside. Press the whole garment and the small hem opening seam allowances up to match the finished edge. Topstitch the hem gap closed. For a more detailed video version of this step, visit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNaqAL84CGc at 5:17 and the video will guide you through this part.
Step Eight: To make the closure for the garment, set up the sewing machine to create buttonholes, or use a specific buttonhole machine. Mark on the right front where the buttonholes will be positioned and how long they will be. Check the size of buttons to make sure they will fit. Make each buttonhole, and before using an unpick to slice through the centre to open it up, check that they are all even. Slice open the buttonholes. Make the covered buttons by following the directions on the package. Place the small piece of fabric with the right side facing downwards on a table and put the button face down as well so it sits on the wrong side of the fabric. Pull the fabric into the centre cavity of the button, securing it on the rough edges, and place the internal button piece in to secure the button. Repeat with the other covered buttons and then hand sew them onto the left front piece of the garment at the marks.
Step Nine: Give the garment a final thorough press and focus on smoothing any seams.